A FEW NOTES ON Living with YOUR BELGIan Malinois

You can find as many opinions about how to train a puppy, or adult dog, as there are trainers!   For example, there's the Clicker Training, Marker Training, Treat Training, E-Collar Training, All Positive Reinforcement, and so on . . . If you buy the books, watch the DVDs, or live-streaming courses . . . you may wind up feeling intimidated and afraid to make a mistake.  Thus, your pup sits waiting for you to find the "perfect" methodology!  My advice is FORGET finding the PERFECT method.  It really doesn't exist.  Here's my reasoning:

1.  You are unlike anyone else in the Universe.  Your particular circumstances are not like everyone else's, and your training goals for your dog may, or may not, be like anyone else's!

2.  Your puppy is a living creature and is, likewise, not exactly like any other puppy!  

3.  The relationship you form with YOUR dog is absolutely unique!  It will become an actual chemical bond--not unlike the bond between a parent and child.   

When I was about 7-years-old, I trained my medium-sized mixed-breed dog to do some pretty amazing things:  like ride on the handlebars and center bar of a boy's bike (which I "appropriated" from one of my younger brothers, as I had no bike of my own).  All that was needed was a reasonably smart dog, a desire to train the dog to do something, the ability and willingness of the dog to try my ideas, a bit of patience, and time to practice.  Oh yes, and a RELATIONSHIP of TRUST between myself and the dog!  I was an "unconsciously competent dog trainer" without ever watching a single DVD, attending a dog training class, or cracking a single dog training book!  

My suggestion is to look into training information and absorb as much as you can before you get your puppy.  It may come in handy later, but set it aside for the time being, once you have your 8-week-old puppy in hand, relax and begin building a relationship of trust:  

For the first few days:  Allow your puppy to learn what the household schedule is all about.  You will have to take your puppy out for potty breaks, so pick a spot where you expect him or her to eliminate.  Take them to the spot on a lead.   Pick a word that means "Go Potty".  I prefer, "Get Busy".   When the puppy eliminates in the spot you have chosen, praise him or her in a happy tone of voice, like s/he just presented you with gold nuggets!  I say, "Good Busy, (dog's name)!!!!"  It helps if the spot has a litter material they were accustomed to at their kennel of origin.  I use wood pellets.  They see and smell the wood pellets and already know what is expected!  Remember, potty breaks are not long walks, play sessions, or training sessions.  Potty Breaks are Business Trips!  Make sure to allow enough time so that the puppy has a chance to do whatever s/he needs to do.  Before long, they will come back to your side to signal they are finished.  Then go inside right away.  

Hopefully, you have picked out a place for the puppy to sleep.  I prefer a HUGE (ultra sturdy) travel crate with a couple pieces of an old blanket I don't mind "sacrificing", and two or three chew toys.  ("Kong" toys are a favourite as they are virtually impossible to destroy!)   My adult dogs sleep indoors at night for about 12-14 hours.  They also nap outdoors during the day.  Puppies need even more sleep!   So pick a quiet semi-dark spot for their crate where they can see what other members of the family are doing, but are out of the "traffic".   

In my opinion, it is a mistake to teach a dog to eliminate in the house with "piddle pads".  Especially with a large breed puppy.  They can produce some fairly large "gifts" for you to pick up!  (Not to mention the Odor!).  Plus, it just creates more drama and confusion when you eventually must teach the puppy to go outside--at some point--anyway!  My rule is that no canine member of the pack eliminates in the house, at any time.  But, to back up this rule, I have to get up and take my puppy outside as often as is needed--according to his or her age!  So far, for my puppies, 2-months-old means every 2-3 hours, 3 months means every 3-4 hours, 4 months every 5-6 hours, 5 months every 7-8 hours, and by 6 months they are on roughly the same schedule as the adults.  Your experience may differ!   

Get Physical.  After an evening potty break and before bedtime, HOLD your puppy!  But, do it in a particular way:  Sit in a chair or on the floor.  Hold the puppy in your lap, with her/his back against your chest with one hand around the middle and one hand loosely around the neck.  When the puppy struggles (and most WILL struggle!), tighten your grip.  And as s/he relaxes, relax your grip.  Once the puppy realizes you are not going to let them fall, flip around, or get down, or move out of this position, they will (eventually) relax, and may even fall asleep.  A calm voice and a belly rub helps.  (Don't get discouraged, some pups are more willful, energetic and/or dominant than others!). 

I like to watch a tv show like Animal Planet, or a program about dogs or other animals.  By facing forward on my lap, they can see the screen and hear the noises the animals make!   Some puppies will even react to the sounds.  Mine prick their eyes up at the bird sounds and bark at the giraffes!  When you get them to relax for a period of time, gently take them off of your lap and put them to bed.  I do this every night until the puppy is really too large to fit on my lap.  What I find is that, after a few evenings of this routine, they run and jump in my lap when called, flip themselves on their back unassisted and promptly relax!  What this accomplishes:  the puppy learns to trust you--bodily.  This make it a lot easier to clip nails, check and clean ears, groom, check pads, and so on.   It lets the puppy know that you are the boss and that there are times when you expect them to hold still.  It also sets up the relationship and the bond between the two of you!  

Make sure going into the crate is not a major battle.  I shamelessly bait my puppies with a few puppy kibbles or bits of uncured beef hot dogs thrown into the back of the crate.  A non-messy, clean, hygienic way of providing water overnight is a quart "Lix-It" (rabbit) water bottle.  A bowl doesn't really hold enough, and anyway, it is going to get stepped in and/or over-turned.  

I only take the puppy out of the crate when they are quiet.  Sometimes, I even wake them up when it is time to go outside.  Barking puppies are ignored.  Puppies learn that they are going to be fed.  They are going to have fresh water at all times.  Someone is going to take them out to eliminate on a regular basis, so they are going to be clean and are not going to be made uncomfortable waiting to go outside.  They learn that good things--like treats and chew toys--and a comfy bed happen in the crate, and that their human is keeping them in a safe space out of household noise and traffic--so that they can rest.  They also learn that barking doesn't make anything happen!  Before very long, your puppy will readily go into his or her crate for the night and settle quickly.   Remember:  Ignoring an unwanted behaviour will extinguish it.  Giving in, even once, will ensure that the puppy will relentlessly repeat the behaviour.  Hey!  Afterall, it worked once, maybe, if I keep doing it, it will work again!   

Just a note:  I have had a dog or two in my life for decades.  I long ago noticed that the dog or puppy who looks me in the eyes when we first meet seems to be the one that I have the best relationship with going forward.  I don't mean a stiff, hostile glare, but rather just a curious "what are we going to do next?" sort of look.  When a puppy has this "look", I can build on it.  For example, when teaching the puppy to "Wait"--before going through a doorway or before eating.   I don't release them with "Let's Go" or "Get it!" (to get food or a toy, or a ball) until s/he makes full-on eye contact.  I want the puppy to see what I am saying--as well as hear it.  If your puppy doesn't look you in the eyes at first, be patient.  When they see that the door isn't opening, or they are not getting the command to "get it", they will look up to your face to see what is the hold-up.  When they do look you in the eye, say "Yes", praise ("Good Boy!") and then give the release command ("Let's Go!"), or the action command ("Get It!")  

Play Ball!   Begin by rolling a ball into a corner in the house when the puppy is quite young.  S/He will quickly learn that chasing the ball is half the fun, the other half is bringing it back to you so that the game can continue!   This Play is great fun, provides exercise and is the foundation I use for teaching other behaviors in the future.  

Some people are okay with their dogs jumping up on their beds, couches and other furniture at will.  I am not.  For one thing, I don't fancy sleeping in a pile of dog hair, covered in dog saliva!  Thus, I teach dogs to "Hop Up!" and "Hop Down" from the places I want them to occupy and leave, such as a bench for grooming, or the back seat of a vehicle.  For another thing:  allowing  a dog to jump on your couch or bed, at will, can lead to possession/dominance and aggression issues with some dogs.  This is particularly true where there are multiple people and/or pets in the household.  

In short, my foundation guidelines for a great relationship are as follows: 

*Hold and Handle your puppy   *Play Ball with your puppy!

*Be Gentle, Fair and Firm in enforcing your (pre-determined) household rules, and make sure everyone in the household is 'onboard' with the structure, schedule and rules.  

*Once up-to-date on inoculations, SAFELY expose your puppy to a variety of situations, people, animals and other environmental stimuli--But, whatever you do, PLEASE DO NOT turn your pup loose in a Dog Park!  Not only is this the breeding ground for every imaginable internal and external parasite, virus and bacteria, it is also where smaller and younger dogs get attacked by larger more aggressive dogs!  If your puppy survives this attack, it may very well psychologically scar her or him for life!  This is like sending a toddler into a war zone!  Don't do it!

*Carry a walking stick (some people also carry pepper spray) when you walk your puppy if you live in an area where people allow their adult dogs to roam free!   Be ready to defend your puppy on walks!  Always walk you puppy on a lead.  I prefer a "Flexi-line".  If an aggressive dog approaches, I wave the walking stick and shout at the dog, after making sure my puppy is either behind me or tucked under an arm.  When your puppy sees that you are willing and able to defend her or him on a walk--their respect for you as "pack leader" grows instantly and by leaps and bounds!  Still, if possible, try to find a more relaxing atmosphere for a walk!  It should be a pleasant experience for both of you!)

*Exercise your puppy carefully to avoid damaging growing bones and joints  

*Don't overfeed your puppy!  Obesity is tough on a growing pup's joints

Formal Obedience includes the Commands:  "Come", "Down", "Stay" (a longer "Wait"), "Sit" and "Heel".  To these commands, I would add "Place" to send the dog to a particular spot where they are to settle and "Stand" (for grooming and examination) and "Up" to jump on a grooming bench or into a vehicle.  If you are unfamiliar with how to teach these basic obedience commands, there are any number of training resources (some of them free of charge) available.  

None of the basic commands are all that difficult to teach.  And, I believe that you will find, with the above foundation, teaching a Belgian Malinois puppy is almost TOO Easy!   With only one or two exceptions, I have had such quick results with the many Malis in my life--I almost feel guilty that it wasn't a tougher job!  The main "problem" with training a Malinois, I find, is that they want to learn more . . . and do more.   They are pretty insistent about it, so it is a challenge to stay a step or two ahead with new things for them to learn.

As I said at the outset, there are many opinions about training.  There are also many options for training your Belgian Malinois beyond the basics.  For example, maybe you want to compete in agility, or dock diving.  You will probably need help with that--if you are not experienced in a particular discipline(s) already.   A good resource is, potentially, your local dog training club.  A list of these clubs can be found on AKC's website, along with schedules for specific trainings and events throughout the country.  Or, attend an event and ask the handlers where they got their dogs trained.  

I do NOT call myself a trainer!  A Professional Dog Trainer is someone who trains dogs for many different Owners.   Although I sometimes train a dog in the basics before it is sold, by and large, I train my own dogs--and no one else's.  I prepare puppies with the "Super Dog Protocol" (see ENS) and use the above methods for integrating a puppy into my household as smoothly as possible, and giving them a foundation for learning more.  I create a calm, safe atmosphere where the puppy learns to trust that her or his physical needs will be met, and begins to form an emotional bond with me.  This foundation makes more advanced learning easier and Fun!  

Being a Breeder is a full day of hard work by itself.  Those Breeders who train on an advanced level and compete with their dogs often have staff that do the day-to-day work of running a breeding kennel--whilst they are away competing, or they "farm out" their breeding bitches.  I keep all of my canines with me--and I prefer to do most of the work myself.  I  'micro-manage' the kennel help I occasionally hire.  It is the only way for me to be absolutely certain my dogs and puppies are treated exactly as I would wish!  My "started" puppies have been bought and trained for Real World Work of all sorts, and in all parts of the USA.  I am very proud of them!  

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***Please understand:  a Belgian Malinois is predisposed by genetics to be protective.  And, while they may deter home invasion or assault by their mere presence, it is also true that, without proper training and "proofing", they may make wrong decisions about who is, and is not, a threat.  Furthermore, without advanced training, if they pursue a "bad guy" who is willing to turn around and fight them (called "pressure"), they may not be able to adequately defend themselves--or you!  Thus, if you want to take Personal Protection and/or Property Protection to the "Next Level", you are going to want to have your dog evaluated for this type of Work, and if suitable, Professionally Trained.  This type of training can be Time-Consuming and Quite Expensive!

My contention is that the majority of "evil doers" are going to be unwilling to challenge a Belgian Malinois--in your home--or on the street.  If you encounter an individual willing to take on a Belgian Malinois, you are dealing with someone who is either flat crazy, or 'high' on drugs, or both.  Only you can assess the likelihood of this scenario--and prepare accordingly.